31 Dec - end of Dec in Costa Rica

  

Wow, sooo achy and tired - it doesn't seem like I've done enough physical activity to feel like I've been through a triathalon!!  But I feel better that my nieces are going through similar pain, at least it's not all down to old age.  Today my biceps, triceps, thighs, back and even fingers seem to ache.  I think it was mostly down to the rigorous horeback ride we did yesterday at Rancho Margot, following the previous days' 2 hour white water rafting??

And tomorrow, Justin and I are hoping to do a tough hike up parts of the volcano to arrive at Chato, a volcanic crater that is inactive, but now holds a lagoon inside.  If it's good weather, we'll hopefuly jump in and cool down after the hike.  Bad weather and we'll be slip-sliding our way down the mountain.  I can hear my muscles complaining already!

It's Justin's birthday tomorrow - he's a New Years' baby.  Since our stove doesn't work and I'm slightly struggling to cook here, we're hiring Odeli to cook up a birthday feast complete with birthday cake.   And from our position way up high, we should be able to enjoy all the fireworks that'll take place later in the evening. But our big challenge will be seeing who can make it up to midnight ... we all think it's bedtime by 8 or 9 since it's dark by 6.

We are really going to miss Costa Rica and, more than that, having our nieces around.  Brittany and Katie have been terrific grown-up'ish company here and make me realise we've been somewhat in danger of early-onset insanity by too much confinement with small children.

These girls are great. I really mean that.  Brittany is such a sarcastic person, fitting in wonderfully with Justin so that none of us are now safe from cutting remarks.   And Katie joins right in the middle.  It's been brilliant, the out-quipping competitions.  And all of us have enjoyed a slightly mean sense of humour for the last few days, we all know it has to stop.  Any and every type of politically incorrect comments and jokes have been on the agenda .... at the heigh of which someone will then add sweetly 'oh and merry christmas!'  But alas, the girls will have to fly out on the 1st and we'll be left with our little troupe of boys who stare at us blankly as the wisecracks fly right over their heads.

So, what is there to catch up on at the moment?  OK, we went to Rancho Margot yesterday.  That was meant to be a 2 hour tour of the self-sustaining, eco-friendly ranch.  But while we were there we added on a 2 1/2 hour horse ride on the lake and river trails and finished with a swim in the warm pool back at the ranch.   A perfectly well-balanced day.

We were so impressed with what the owner, Juan, has accomplished in just 8 years.

....

OK, it's the 31st, just picking up where I left off (rainy, rainy, rainy day here, so all hiking cancelled at the moment!!).

Rancho Margot is what I wanted to mention.  We learned so much on that tour about how a self-sustaining community can work.    Rancho Margot is the brainchild of its' owner, Juan.  He bought this property 8 years ago - against all the odds, it sounds like. Then, bit by bit, he created a small community that is self-sustaining - everything is grown or made on the ranch - furniture, homes, veg crops, animal enclusures.  

After feeding 70 residents and other visitors 3 squares a day, 7 days per week only ONE bag of waste is produced weekly!   rancho Margot brings recycling to a new level. There is even an area where leftover soap is reused to make new soap bars and used on the ranch as well as sold locally.

learning about eco farming, natural power production and recycling at Ranchot Margot

Rancho Margot makes use of all the flowing water nearby to harness hydroelectric power.    And in addition to this, all water for showers and taps on the ranch comes is heated in coils placed in stacks of compost.  Apparently, as the composting process takes place, if you put your hands inside, it is so warm your hands can feel burnt.   There are 12 stacks of compost, each with a coil and each stack is rotated out every 12 weeks, for the fertilizer to be used in the fields.     We swam in the pool heated by water from these coils and I can attest to the effectiveness!!

The work at Rancho Marcho Margo is on the leading edge of self-sustainable eco-friendly living.  Because of the structure, layout and continuous research and progress made here, there are 40 universities here in Costa Rica that send their students to view, study and work on the ranch.  Rancho Margot is well prepared for 1-2 year volunteer placements with small, but tidy dorm accommodations.   There is also a classroom and a library avaible on the premises.

During the entire tour, Andy kept telling me 'Mum, I really want to live here..  This is my kind of place.  The animals.  The research.  The forest.  Everything!'   He maintained this all day until the next day when he decided that he would still prefer to live near his cousins - out of sight , out of mind ...

the horses and stables and ranchot margot were beautifully dressed and tidy, picture perfect

Anyway, today is absoluting pouring it down outside.  We are doing a bit of self-entertainment and then I must pack.  Hasta luego.

more pics:

https://picasaweb.google.com/105332575943799967078/20111229CRRanchoMargotWithJuan

https://picasaweb.google.com/105332575943799967078/20111231CostaRicaMiscellaneous

27 Dec - white water rafting with Didier and Aguas Bravas

We relunctantly pulled ourselves out of bed at 6 am for the earliest excursion in ou plans here:  white water rafting with Aguas Bravas.   We tortured Andy out of bed (having found him holding an itouch under his pillow and with a mountain of chocolate wrappers by his head after an apparent late-nighter).  We skipped through some marginally acceptable teeth brushing and threw ourselves into the car, headed just past La  Fortuna.

An hour later, having arrived, disembarked and dispersed children in all directions, we were approached by our river guide who informed us that we should definitely NOT go on the scheduled class 4 rafting excursion.   Looking the boys over, he said, no I would never take children this small out on a 4, way too dangerous, someone will fall in and be in danger.

Inwardly, I couldn't help smugly thinking, hmmm, that guy just doesn't realise that our kids are tougher than most, ready for a bit of rough and tumble.   Outwardly, I agreed with him that, if he didn't feel comfortable taking kids this age/size out on a 4, he was probably right.  We all agreed to come back at 11 for a class 2-3 rafting trip.

       

Before the rafting commenced, Brittany (our Cat Whisperer) and Andy found a beautiful kitten,  I fell in love with this cow and Justin and Sam entertained themselves

As we sat in a bakery in La Fortuna, sipping coffee and hot chocolates, all I could think was Great, just great!  I could still be warm and cosy in bed, laying around for another half hour.  Oh, how I missed that extra half hour.

For the first time since we've been here, the clouds cleared from the top of the volcano and we got some beautiful snaps of it looming behind La Fortuna, sulking and steaming. a proud, perfectly cone-shaped mountain.

The girls took the opportunity to go through the souvenir shops in La Fortuna for friends and family.  We decided that from now on, everyone should argue with all their friends just before leaving and then make up after returning so that they didn't have to worry about bringing a lot back.  But they chose some very pretty colorful bracelets, flowery hair-holders, rustic miniature pan flutes and an impressive little array of forget-me-nots to bring back.

When we returned to the rafting center, Aguas Bravas, the children hunted down the tiny kitten that Brittany had found earlier in the morning and procedeed fight over who loved it or deserved it the most - the poor kitten looked quite beewildered as it was squeezed and grabbed.  It had only ever chosen one person to come to - Brittany, our Cat Whisperer.  I think the poor thing may have been reconsidering the decision.

We left for the rafting spot, about 45 minutes drive.    Having been mainly in El Castillo and La Fortuna, it was was interesting to see the homes, cafes, farms and all sorts of things along the way.

We met up with a other tourists at the launch site and were all kitted up with life vests and paddles.  I hooked the GoPro camera over my helmet and was ready to go.

After a brief description of all the commands and actions we needed to know, we launched into the water and began paddling.   The river looked pretty tame and I thought, ghee, I hope this isn't gonna be too babyish..

But it wasn't too long before we were in white waters, with fast waters splashing us around  small boulders and river bends.   With the first real drop of the raft I was all of a sudden appreciating that we were on a 2-3 and not a 4!   What on earth was a 4 like?!   Our river had plenty of points at which it tried to throw a person over the raft or shake us from our positions.  Glancing at the boys, I was happy that Sam was in the middle and not near an edge!  But he was absolutely ecstatic, smiling and laughing as he worked to keep his balanace.   Andy and Ben didn''t have to row for the 1st section, so they wouldn't bash Sam with their paddles.  The girls chipped right in with the paddles.

We saw several sloths, an eagle, a large orange iguana, and many cormerants (large, dark birds).   It was funny that we saw so many more animals here as we whizzed down the river than we did on our hanging bridges jungle trek.   Our guide, Didier, was great at spotting creatures in the trees ahead.

At one point, another raft became stuck on a rock in the middle of fast moving waters.  They were in trouble, with water coming onboard.  Didier left Justin in charge of our raft and headed over to help out.   I felt our guide was the best of the lot - but may have been prejudiced!

Didier had Sam and Ben take turns to sit on the bow of the boat, legs astride the point, as we navigated through turbulent waters in the 2nd section (class 2).   They loved that, it was like riding a bull and being in a water park both!  

When we finished, we were offered sections of watermelon and pineapples, freshly cut ... sakes alive, did they taste good after all that paddling?!!

After the rafting, we headed for a sustainable ranch for lunch.   It was gorgeous, with exotic flowers growing along the main path and crops of tropical fruits and veg visible.  Under a thatched roof palapa, there were several long tables arranged.  We were each able to make a tortilla out of a dough ball and take it to a lady to bake in a stone oven.

As the tortillas finished cooking a few minutes later, we were presented with a meal of Casada - made with rice, beans, chicken and an assortment of the ranch vegetables. We drank star fruit juice from the ranch as well.  It was a lot like orange juice, we all, even the boys, enjoyed it.  Andy had a second plate full.

Everyone makes their tortillas for lunch ... and Brit with the final outcome

After lunch we walked to another palapa and sat around the edges to listen to the ranchers talking about the local fruit and veg products.  Using members of our little audience, including Andy and Ben, they showed us how to bash and then strain sugar canes for their juice.  We each drank some, but it was even too sweet for me!  Then they brought out the local alcohol made from sugar can juice.  We each had a sip of it.  While it wasn;t unpleasant, my throat warmed to burning, I coughed and spluttered and think my tongue was exfoliated as a result.  The kids attempts at a sip were even more funny.

Saying goodbye to the ranchers, we made our way back to the van and then the rafting office.  We all piled into our car for the hour long trip home, stopping also by the grocery while in the 'big town' of La Fortuna where we could find a supermarket.

Any and Ben extract juice from a sugar cane and we all sample the juice .. as well as a sip of the alcoholic product (akin to paint stripper)

all the pics:

https://picasaweb.google.com/105332575943799967078/20111227CRRaftingWithDidierAndRanchVisit

26 Dec - ziplining on Boxing Day

We all woke up on the 26th as much looking forward to ziplining that day as to the thought of warm showers, big beds, sofas and a real kitchen at the next house.    It was an early start for 9 AM ziplines, but we were there by 8:45.

Like the rappelling, Sky Trek's ziplines and tram are very professionally done and have a corporate feel to them.   We arrived and, after bartering and skimming around the truth, managed to get Sam booked in for the zipline (which has an age limit of 8).  He had been devastated to find out he probably couldn't go - especially as he'd already been  on some very high zipplines with harnesses in Mexico.  We didn't feel too bad about telling a few white lies.  No one believed us that he was 8, but he was bigger than some of the 8 year olds that were doing the ziplines (and braver no doubt!).  In fact, when asked how fun it was at the end, he said 'Not very.  It wasn't scary enough' ... bearing in mind, a smile never left his face the whole time!

   

We were all pretty excited at the start.  I attached the GoPro camera to my helmet to capture the flights.  We all slipped into our harnesses and were guided out to the trams.  But it wasn't until we were on our way up, up, up the mountain on the tram that the reality of what we were in for began to hit.  Looking nervously around us as the tops of the trees began to sink lower and lower around us,  this was no little adventure park zipline.  This was the real deal.

We were given two trial runs on small ziplines as we left the saftey of our tram.   These were easy peasy.  Look, no hands! sort of thing.    We began to get more confident again.  Then, we went on our first REAL one.

Looking reassuringy at the numerous saftey devices which were to hold to the thick cable, we leaned back as we were each clipped on - Sam being the first guinea pig, coupled with a guide because he wasn't heavy enough to make it to the other end alone.  Then me, on my own.

OK, the platform was just fine.  But then the zipline guy swung me forward by the harness and I found myself travelling at what seemed like 200 miles per hour along a 2000 foot long cable hanging 656 feet about the ground.   The air whistled past my ears.  My stomach clenched and my hands, holding the metal stabiliser bars, trembled.  For about 10 seconds I thought - ok, fine, I'm doing this one, but that's it, I'll walk the rest of the way down, thank you!   Then I leaned back a little, resting into the harness and looked at the clips holding me on (and, yes, there is enough time for all this mental conversation along the way) and I began to enjoy it.  Really.  The lake in the background, the cloud topped volcano, the floor of rainforest below me.   Then it was time to place my legs out in position for landing.  As soon as my feet made contact with the platform I knew I had to do this again.

I watched as the next person came in, just a spot in the distance. Then nearing closer, arms and legs became visible as we strained to make out the image, like staring at a 12 week baby scan.  All of a sudden a person emerged and was heading onto the platform in a mad flash.  It was Katie.  She paused on the platform as she was unclipped from the line and I could see her legs were trembling.   Then she came down and joined me and Sam.  We were high on adrenaline.  Katie was so excited. To be honest, we both were more tremulous and excited than Sam - that crazy daredevil of a little kid, he was all nonchalant!

We watched as Brittany made a similar appearance from what looked like nowhere.  She looked scared too, but said she loved the thrill of the ride.    Both girls had tears in their eyes, from the wind  I was informed.  They did seem very brave.  Unlike other people not in our group, they never once expressed any doubt about going again or said they were too scared.  Proper tough guys, and, erm, girls, in our family!!

Andy and Ben were sent together in a similar fashion as Sam and Rodolfo.  They were less scared about the flight than angry and disgusted at having to put their legs around each other to stick together.  Blechh!  After the guide assured them that there was no other way, they eventually settled down and enjoyed the zips.

Before we wre ready for it, we were at the last line.   We all felt we had just warmed up and were really ready for more.   That's life for you.

Funnily enough, many people found going down the high circular staircase at the end of the last zipline more scary than the ziplines!   I could see why, but wasn't frightened about it at all - a little dizzy maybe, but not frightened.

When  we finished we were all famished and went into El Castillo for lunch on our serpentarium balcony.   Then we were off to discover the new house.

We fell in love within seconds of leaving the car.  Chickens, two miniature dogs, an amazing view of the lake, volcano, mountains (2nd best in El Castillo, Nancy says),  two stories with 2 cosy living rooms and open kitchen and dining room... what not to love?!

We checked out the whole house several times over.  The huge soft beds with billowy duvets and fresh smelling pillows ... ahhh heaven!

Sam immediately took the more confident miniature dog, called Muneco, as  an adored prisoner, refusing to release him, squeezing him tightly to his chest.  As I tried to pry the poor creature from his arms, Sam squeezed harder and screeched at decibels that almost left my hearing range.  So I backed off and let him eventually return the dog to the ground.  We're reaching a mutual understanding about how to hold poor Muneco who just seems to just come back for more, psycho or martyr??

Just down from our house are paths into the jungle.  One which we are told goes to a lovely waterfall.  Justin and I both have plans to head there - ideally together!  Meanwhile, all the kids are so happy here in all this space.  I may be falling in love with this little ranch in the volcanic rainforest mountains in this perfect patch of Costa Rica....

all the pics:

https://picasaweb.google.com/105332575943799967078/20111226CRZiplines

25 Dec - Christmas in El Castillo, Costa Rica

Xmas eve we went as planned to Rancho Margo, a self-sustaining organic farm about 20 minutes drive along the bumpy pot-holed roads.   This was one of the few places offering food for evening - which was lucky for us as our cooking space and resources were exceptionally limited!

We saw Nancy, our El Castillo lady-to-know, and Juan from the serpentarium, at the ranch and met some new friends during the evening.  It was a quiet laid-back affair.  We were presented with leaf-and-twine wrapped presents which turned out to be lovely wooden bowls made locally.  That was a nice touch and we were all warmed by the friendliness of locals.

  

That night we all went ot sleep fairly early, but it was a restless night - more due to the very rainy, windy weather than xmas excitement I think.  Santa somehow arrived during the night here in Costa Rica - thanks very much to my sisters and mum in Tennessee helping to contact him and let him know what the boys would like!

Ben woke up at 5:30 or 6 and, although he had an eye on the christmas stockings, was able to make himself stay in bed quietly until after 6 when everyone was starting to wake up.   Oh the excitement!  That santa guy left stockings with silly putty, bey blades and sooooo much candy among other things.   Up in his bunk bed, Sam kept saying over and over 'I'm staying here all day in Christmas Heaven!!'

I'm so glad that the presents and candies went down well - it was enough to help hide the fact that we were in a very plain, basic room.   The boys were quick to run across to the serpentarium to show Juan and the others their Christmas presents ... then back to visit our neighbours and show them too.    All of us had a lovely, quiet morning hanging out with our neighbours and on our balcony at the serpentarium.

I felt for the girls who must've been missing their families and the Christmas tree, holiday food filled morning that would be happening back home.  But if they were feeling sad about that they didn't let us know.

We had a delicious lunch at our serpentarium - spaghetti bolognaise for all the kids and my favourite dish, Casado, for Justin and me.    Not turkey and ham, not christmas pudding.  No christmas tree or hanging tinsel or cheesy xmas decorations ... but we did enjoy the green trees, the Blue morpho butterflies, the howling of the monkeys and the t-shirt weather.  It was our Alternative Christmas Day.

Later  in the day, we joined forces with our Alaskan neghbours to prepare a joint meal and pull tables together at their slighty bigger place across the way.  Mimi made fresh salads and warmly spiced chicken and rice.  I threw in a chili-spiced spaghetti bolognaise.  We poured the wine and enjoyed our Alternative Christmas together.

all the pics:

https://picasaweb.google.com/105332575943799967078/20111225CRXmasEveXmasDay