Sunday, 23 October 2011
Sun 23 Oct - Chichen Itza
Feeling very sorry to have to leave Izamal behind so quickly, we did linger a little for breakfast and a stroll through the biggest pyramid in town. Breakfast was lovely, huevos con jamon for the Ben and Sam, Quesadillas for Andy, bowl of fruit and some sweet bread for me (and Sam!) and a local huevos dish for Justin that I can't remember the name of - a tortilla topped with frijoles and eggs and salsa.
The pyramid was lovely, but a little overrun with scouts eager to reach the summit. We climbed up - the view was more jungle thatn Izamal city as I'd hoped, but beautiful. But it was time to drive on to Chichen Itza.
Arrivingat Chichen Itza, we found the opposite experience to Uxmal's laid back, natural beauty and spirituality. Chichen is now an incredibly commercial place, filled with tour buses and geared up to be the Disneyland of ruins. If this is what being named a World Heritage site does to the area, they should give back the title.
The ruins themselves were interesting. We did not choose a guide as we were harassed ridiculously by ever kind of vendor on our arrival: did we want an english/swiss/japanese/german guide? would we like a t-shirt? perhaps a mayan mask? a massage? some popsicles? a scarf? a chess set? it's cheaper, better, more authentic than everywhere else, I promise, lady ... and so on, you get the picture.
Justin felt so harassed that we veered from the path on the way out. Headed straight on to Playa, skipping any other spots. Oh well.
Saturday, 22 October 2011
Sat 22 Oct - Cuzama cenotes and Izamal
Saturday morning we had to say goodbye to the folks at the hostel and move onwards on our way to Playa del Carmen. The fellows that run the hostel, Oscar, Moses and their helpers, had become fond of the boys, especially Sam who spent lots of time talking with them. The children had all been practicing their spanish ordering breakfast each day. They are each getting really clear at saying ‘may I have ..’, ‘thank you’, and ‘please’.
We all enjoyed getting to know a young couple called Jessi (from Chicago) and Johann (from Iceland). They were dive instructors and travelled all over the place. Johann especially impressed the boys with photos of water snakes, eels, rays and all sorts of sea creatures. Jessi is also a website developer who has written a travel site in java: http://beneaththesurface.me/.
We set off for Cenotes near Cuzama and were pleasantly surprised to find them. When we pulled our car into the cark park, we saw a group of small wooden carts (the size of golf carts) and horses near what appeared to be a set of narrow railway tracks. We were told to climb aboard one (each carries 3-6 people) and the horse and driver took off at a trot. It seemed like ages that the horse went on – at least 15 or 20 minutes – until we arrived at the first cenote. This cenote trio had definitely been cultivated to gear towards tourists. There was even a hut with a bathroom and changing area off a little path. It was surprisingly clean and well-maintained for something that far out in the wild.
Climbing down steps into the first cenote, it was a relief to see the sun coming in from above lit the water and made it clear and blue so we could see the light bottom of the water in places. We each enjoyed jumping in and swimming around inside the large cavern. The water was extremely clear and fresh. We could see some small fish in the water occasionally.
Moving on to the next cenote, we were already suited up, wet and ready to jump in. At the mouth of the 2nd cenote we found a ladder that went straight down. We couldn’t see well into the cavern from above, so I was a bit concerned about the little ones making it down the ladder safely. Justin and Andy went down and returned with news that it was safer than it looked so we all went down together. This 2nd cenote was a bit deeper than the first, with an interesting hill like mound of stone in the center of the water. We enjoyed investigating the areas near the entrance mainly. Justing went a bit further out into the more distant darker corners with his underwater camera.
I felt pretty sorry for the horses pulling the carts – many appeared to be skin and bones. Not in a state to pull cartloads of people along long distances of tracks. I fed our 2 apples to a few
Scout meetings/conference at the cathedra
delicious tacos in the square
Pedro, Eduardo, and Jose at the sat eve festival
===Sun: Izamal breakfast, then Chichen Itza for afternoon, drive to playa
Saturday morning we had to say goodbye to the folks at the hostel and move onwards on our way to Playa del Carmen. The fellows that run the hostel, Oscar, Moses and their helpers, had become fond of the boys, especially Sam who spent lots of time talking with them. The children had all been practicing their spanish ordering breakfast each day. They are each getting really clear at saying ‘may I have ..’, ‘thank you’, and ‘please’.
We all enjoyed getting to know a young couple called Jessi (from Chicago) and Johann (from Iceland). They were dive instructors and travelled all over the place. Johann especially impressed the boys with photos of water snakes, eels, rays and all sorts of sea creatures. Jessi is also a website developer who has written a travel site in java: http://beneaththesurface.me/.
We set off for Cenotes near Cuzama and were pleasantly surprised to find them. When we pulled our car into the cark park, we saw a group of small wooden carts (the size of golf carts) and horses near what appeared to be a set of narrow railway tracks. We were told to climb aboard one (each carries 3-6 people) and the horse and driver took off at a trot. It seemed like ages that the horse went on – at least 15 or 20 minutes – until we arrived at the first cenote. This cenote trio had definitely been cultivated to gear towards tourists. There was even a hut with a bathroom and changing area off a little path. It was surprisingly clean and well-maintained for something that far out in the wild.
Climbing down steps into the first cenote, it was a relief to see the sun coming in from above lit the water and made it clear and blue so we could see the light bottom of the water in places. We each enjoyed jumping in and swimming around inside the large cavern. The water was extremely clear and fresh. We could see some small fish in the water occasionally.
Moving on to the next cenote, we were already suited up, wet and ready to jump in. At the mouth of the 2nd cenote we found a ladder that went straight down. We couldn’t see well into the cavern from above, so I was a bit concerned about the little ones making it down the ladder safely. Justin and Andy went down and returned with news that it was safer than it looked so we all went down together. This 2nd cenote was a bit deeper than the first, with an interesting hill like mound of stone in the center of the water. We enjoyed investigating the areas near the entrance mainly. Justing went a bit further out into the more distant darker corners with his underwater camera.
I felt pretty sorry for the horses pulling the carts – many appeared to be skin and bones. Not in a state to pull cartloads of people along long distances of tracks. I fed our 2 apples to a few of the horses who seemed a tired and thirsty. Tough life for a horse.
We set out for Izamal, a town we had heard lovely things abotu from, well, just about everyone so far! Izzamal did not disappoint. The entire town is painted one color - a mustard yellow, ochre, with white trimmings. The huge cathedral is a dramatic centerpiece to the town and is overlooked by no less than 4 pyramids left here by the mayans. The city has a largely spanish influence that can be seen in the architecture, however - another place living in onging contrast: old and new, mayan and spanish, colorful and conservative, all living side by side.
We decided to call it an evening in Izamal and not try to get all the way to Valladolid as had been the earlier plan. We stayed in a beautiful hotel, elegant and stylish. 2 Queen size beds and a large hammock in our room along with a private shower felt very luxurious after sharing with our hostel mates.
We set out into the town and headed into the cathedral first. A large gruops of scouts were holding a conference there with little tents in the grassy courtyards. Inside the cathedral lots of people were attending the evening mass. I stopped to listen, it warmed me to join in their mass for a few moments.
Heading down into the plazas, the townsfolk were out celebrating the Saturday night joyfully. There were people of all ages, fair rides set up, little market stalls, and outdoor restaurants.
We settled into some tables at a little restaurant stall and ordered the only thing realy on offer - pork filets sliced up with tacos and served with salsa and limes. We all agreed that it might have been the best meal we'd eaten so far on our journeys.
The family working this outdoor restaurant was very attentive and professional. A little boy who brought us our food kept watching the boys. We called him over and were talking with him - he said his name was Pedro and he was 8 years old, same as Ben. He kept smiling as he talked and we thought he was a charming little guy. His cousin, Eduardo, about 12 years old came to help. He was also very interested in the boys and what football team they support - football again, the internationla language of men!
After eating we asked the boys parents if we could invite them to join our boys for 15 or 20 minutes to ride some of the fair rides. Their parents were kind and said it was ok. Pedro says he works every day in their restaurant - Andy and Ben were impressed by this.
We took the boys and their little cousin, Jose, to the ferris wheel and all the kids - minues Jose who was about 3 - queued up for a ride. It was fun to watch. I did notive that 'elf and safety guidelines do not seem to be imposed here either as the ferris wheel was much faster than others we're used to. The boys found it thrilling of course!! I was a little nervous watching, with Jose by my side.
Afterwards we took them to the 'bouncy house' which was a meshed structure with two levels of trampolines - looked like one mounted on poles above another - connected to another two levels of similar set-up by a slide and tunnel. The structure seemed safe enough for what it was.
Finally, we went to the bumpers cars and all had a go - including Justin and myself. I took little Jose in my car and Justin took Sam. These bumper cars were a bit bumpier than I remembered them to be and -surprise! - no seatbelts. 'elf and saftey has definitely not visited Izamal. We did have fun, but poor little Jose bumped his lip quite badly - even though I held on to him so tightly I struggled to steer!
We took the boys back and Ben realised his Nintendo DSi had been in his pocket and now was not. Of course he was devastated, and we looked high and low for it. But, as a local guy said, something that expensive will not stay around for long. I felt guilty inquiring about the missing DSi as it was embarrassing to mention that my son owned a toy so expensive it cost more than most of those folks probably make in a week, or four! So it was a sad end to what had been a very fun night out for all of us. Ben cried a lot, but he and Andy said they also understood how priveliged they are to own these things at all.
Friday, 21 October 2011
Fri 21 Oct - Uxmal ruins and our 1st cenote
Finally we made it to Uxmal on Friday. We hired a local mayan guide, nicknamed Gama. He was full of stories about the mayan way of life. He said he had been brought up attending mayan ceremonies and that now he is called upon to help create them by other local mayans.
Gama taught us to count to three in mayan: un pe, ca pe, osh pe; and how to say thank you: yum boh teek.
He also showed us how clapping our hands in front of the main pyramid, the magicians temple, caused a strange echo that sounded apparently like a ketsel bird, the same as donates its tailfeathers for the ceremonial headdresses. According to Gama it is the minerals in the limestone that cause this echo.
We learned that in the active days of Uxmal, the priest or leader had to climb the steps up the pyramid in a diagonal manner, as climbing straight up would offend the sun gods. Crikes, even climbing straight up would have been a perilous venture as the steps are so narrow and steep!
The Magicians Pyramid is also called the thrice built pyramid. This is because it has been added to twice.. for the mayans, every 52 years they need to finish buildign on one temple and start a new one. So Magicians Pyramid consists of 3 stages, with the bottom temple, middle temple and top temple.
A lot of thought was put into the design of the temples and shadow alignment. There is evidence of this in the side ‘rails’ of the steps up the pyramid. On the days of the equinox (March/Sept 21st) , at sundown, shadows are created alongside the steps of the magicians pyramid that curve like a snake, culminating at the base in stone shaped as a serpents head. Similarly, the Paloma (dove/pigeon) temple, has snake shadows at noon on Dec 21st.
When we were told we would see the SayBah (sp?) tree, depicting the mayan universe, I thought we would see a scuplture. The Mayan name for this tree is Ya Ax Che – with the usual sh sound for the ‘x’. I was surprised to see that there was an actual tree, quite large, but normal nonetheless. The SayBah tree does sound strangely hollow when you knock on it, unusual for a live tree. Gama showed us artistic depictions of the tree, with 9 roots growing down as the gods of the underworld, a trunk symbolising Earth, and 13 branches reaching towards the heavens. This fascinated Andy and Ben and they spent a while with Gama understanding the different names and stories of these gods.
The rain god Chaac is the most special god in the mayan ruins on the Puuc route. This is because this area is higher elevation and receives less rainfall than other mayan regions. The images of the rain god Chaac are everywhere, characterised by a hooked nose that either faces downwards (producing a cup shape) when the image is praying or asking for something … or faces upwards (producing an upside down cup shape) when thanking the heavens.
Driving past the edge of a small pueblo on the Ruta Puuc (mayan ruins route), we came across signs for a cenote, something high on our list of things to see. We pulled up into what appeared to be a long driveway, nothing but a grass and dirt track offering respite to a few nibbling goats. An old woman watched us with curiosity as she reclined against a wall in the local mayan attire of white cotton dress with colorful emboidery at the tops and bottom edges.
For a moment we figured we’d made a wrong turn, but when asked, the old lady smiled and nodded down the grass and dirt path saying it would curve to the right and lead to the cenote. A couple kilometers down the path, as we feared we might be destroying the poor car’s undercarriage, a sign appeared to mark our destination.
When we arrived at the cenote, we were the only people there. We saw a steel rail and wooden platform erected at the mouth of the cenote. As we stood at its edge and looked down, we saw what must have been about a 30 ft descent to the lower platform inside the cave. I wondered for a second if I must be insane to let me 5 year old descend the narrow and slippery spiral steps into the cave – just slightly protected by the wide-set rails from a nasty demise.
Before there was more time to think, 2 splashes filled the air as Justin and Andy wasted no time in diving into the pitch black water. On further inspection, the water proved to be crystal clear – in fact we could see every detail of Justin and Andy’s bodies as clearly as if they were standing next to us in the sunlight. But the cenote was quite deep and therefore appeared black beyond their bodies. Sam was next to fling himself in. Ben and I were a little more anxious about swimming in pitch black water, not knowing what creatures may lie within. We each took our turns diving in, nobody wanted to be left out of the experience, but Ben and I spent most of our time watching. The water was pleasantly refreshing, cool, clear and even soft, if that can be said of swimming water. Tree roots hung down to the water from the ‘ceiling above us and through the open skylight great green trees peered down over us. The walls of the cave dimpled and shimmered, creating artwork with shadows and stalactites.
Soon Andy and Sam started climbing further up the spiral stairs and cannon-balling into the water below. Justin had determined that the water was at least 20 meters deep all round us. We watched as he swam downwards into the inky darkness to try to touch the bottom – he never did, but we could see him clearly from head to toe as far as he could swim.
The day grew longer and the loss of sunlight made a great impact, sending more and more of the cave into the shadows. It was time to go. If we didn’t leave soon, Andy and Sam might have been jumping from the height of the cave entrance in a few more minutes.
On the way home, it was very dark. We were nervous about getting back to Merida on the windy roads dotted with construction. In the end it took us a couple of hours, we were pretty tired and hungry. We got back to the hostel and the children told all of our fellow travelers about their experiences.
Later that evening, a large orchestra began to play in the Grand Plaza across from our hostel. We watched and listened from our little balcony above, like royalty in an opera box.
Thursday, 20 October 2011
Thu 20 Oct - Yucatan, Lol Caves and Ruta Puuc
Thursday morning, we went to rent a car and set out for Uxmal ruins, maybe the Route Puuc containing many more ruins, mayana cities and cenotes along the way. We decided to head first in the direction of LolTun, the largest discovered cenote on the yucatan peninsula. On the way there, we found ourselves driving through Muna and Ticul and Oxtuzcab where whole families were being shuttled around the pueblos on bicycle and motorcycle taxis. We found ourselves driving part-way on a red dirt road making room occasionally for a trucks carrying families and groups of young men as well and sometimes the construction equipment working to make it a real road.
The LolTun cave did not disappoint. Having driven more than an hour to arrive there, and striking up an arrangement with an English tour guide, we set off for the entrance of the caves where the Warrior image is found. Our guide set out 3 rules which included no running, hopping, skipping (no, he was not looking at me as he said this!), or wandering from the guide (again, not looking at me). So immediately on making the steep, rocky descent down into the cave, gruta, Sam jumped from rock to rock, happy as Larry, then Bam! slid down a few stones on his bottom. The rule about not running was repeated again throughout the cave, some things do not stick in a boys head – maybe if they were translated into star wars speak??
Our guide was very good, stopping to point out the huge stalactites hanging from the ceiling and then the little stalagmites trying to grow upwards from their steady drips.
Most spectacular was when we neared the end of the main tunnel and came into a huge cavern that was lit up by large openings in the ceiling. Basically, holes in the earth about 30-feet in diameter or more opened as skylights for the cave. Large trees above had roots that stretched down to the cave floor, maybe 90 feet or so. These roots were often used for access into and out of the caves. For us, fortunately, there were steps in the stone nearby to make the climb out less challenging.
Tuesday, 18 October 2011
18-22 October - Arrivining in the Yucatan Peninsula
We arrived Tuesday afternoon to a city enveloped in torrential rains. Rather than improving, the roads turned into canals by the time we had reached our lodgings, Hostel Zocalo. For the first time in our lives, we walked through foot deep water to get across the roads and into dry areas. Would've been easier if the water hadn't been a murky brown grey leading you to wonder what it contained - not sure if it was our imagination, but our toes began to hurt and itch where they had been soaking in the water.
Our hostel is like a little commune. Housed in a very old building that is located next door to the oldest home in Merida, there are double-height ceilings, doors and windows throughout (we're told that design was to alleviate the heat being trapped in rooms). Our private room has a couple of double sized beds, but it's best feature is the iron-ballustraded balcony in front which overlooks the main Palaz Grande.
Hostel Zocalo has the feel of one big family. We are all sharing a central kitchen, dining, living space and bathrooms. There's a hammock for relaxing and a little courtyard. The breakfasts are very good with lots of fresh fruit and offers of any kinds of eggs and crepes. The boys have made themselves right at home - they always love a good buffet breakfast!
Merida is itself drawn out in a grid style, even numbered streets in one direction and odd in another. Better than lots of more modernised towns. There is free wireless internet and also electrical outlets in the big parks here... so you see people sitting out there with their latops plugged in and surfing away in the middle of scene decades old of street peddlers and bicycle taxis. Our hostel is located on one side of the main square, Grand Plaza. This plaza has the Palacio Gobierno on one side and the oldest cathedral in all the Americas on the other. The cathedral is built using stones from the ruins of Mayan temples, which seems somewhat contradictory, but didn't bother the builders.
While there are plenty of street vendors walkign the plazas and sidewalks of central Merida, we were never made to feel harassed as can be the case. Instead we foudn mayan locals to be incredibly friendly. They were all interested in our boys with their red hair and blue eyes. Children stare and less bashful old ladies exclaim 'que guapo!' reaching out to finger their hair. Mayan men came up to us several times to find out where we were from and offer advice on where to eat, local attractions to see. Sometimes they even accompanied us to the destinations. We felt a little suspiscious of their intent, but then also thought this reflected badly on our expectations of others as their actions proved guileless.
We found some of the mayan girls and women to be strikingly pretty with their wide cheeckbones, smooth skin and almond shaped eyes. Their cotton dresses, embroidered blouses and colorful scarves reflected their warm nature. Mayans seem very proud of their culture and history - and we love learning about it here every day.
The single most interesting aspect of life here in Merida happens in the evenings. The Plazas become full of people, men, women, children. There are vendors, musicians, entertainers. But mainly there are romantic couples. You see them strolling the plazas, hand in hand, cuddlign, sometimes stopping to kiss. This is one of the most romantic places.
People here love a celebration and there seems to be a reason for one every day somewhere in Merida. Around 5 or 6 in the evening, groups of musicans arrive in the streets. We thought they would join in the festivities of the plazas .. but in fact they are there to be hired out to play for private audiences. They are hired to serenade sweethearts, entertain birthday parties, and all sorts of celebrations. Sometimes, we're told, they climb trees or balconies to fulfill a request. There is no limit here to the celebrations other than your imagination.
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Monday, 17 October 2011
Mon 17 Oct - Bosque de los Colomos, dinner in city
Monday we were fortunate to obtain a playdate with our favorite guy Charlie Jr, Chachi. We took Charlie (or he took us, I'm not sure which) to the forest nearby, Bosque de les Colomos, to ride horses.
Charlie pointed out his football practice fields for Atlas nearby. He's just switched from Chivas jrs (Chivas being one of the country's main professional teams) to play for Atlas as he wanted a break in the rigorous training schedule for a while. Football's a serious business here - a tough pace for a 12 year old!
I really love Bosque de los Colomos. It's one of the prettiest forest parks I've seen - with a water and stone based japanese garden, an agave and cactus mexican garden, a pond with ducks, an outdoor gym and playground and horses for hire. All set within a large, walkable set of paths.
We realised we weren't in England any more when, upon hiring the horses, we were put on them without adjustment of stirrups or sadles and set free to make our way around the park. Sam's horse immediately started misbehaving, turning in circles and heading towards snacking spots. I was a little shocked at having been set free so quickly upon hiring the horses, having expected some guidance or tour guide even. We'd had a few horse riding lessons at home, but weren't entirely prepared for this freedom yet! So much for the 'ef and saftey guys!! To their credit, the fellows at the stable cottoned on to our situation and a guy came over to help Sam with his horse. Not long after Andy, Ben and Charlie got their horses trotting through the forest and into a competition.
Later in the day, we left the kids home with grandpa Abuelito and headed out for a child-free dinner with some of our cousins. We were over the moon to meet our newest little nieece, Bea, who did manage to sneak into our grown-up dinner. The food was super-delicious, sopapitos (little tostadas with toppings), and steak filets, enchiladas and little quesadillas. All perfect, made even nicer if possible by the company of our cousins - Lupita, Patricia, Paco, Paco, Rosio, Monica Sofia, Margarita, Angie and Mariella. It was a great last night to close out our stay in Guadalajara!
Sunday, 16 October 2011
Sun 16 Oct - Ride on the Tequila Express
Saturday, today, we went into neighbouring Tlaquepaque. This is a favourite haunt for all of us when visiting Guadalajara. There are very good restaurants with gourmet and classical mexican food. The main attraction, however, is the town's art galleries and shops. We visited the Museo Pantaleon Panduro museum which had an amazing array of local art. Andy remarked that it wasn't a museum if the things in it aren't hundreds of years old, so I had to explain that an art museum is usually not like a history museum... my brain cells were a bit pushed here, maybe the margarita from lunch?
We ate gourmet mexican cuisine, serenaded by local artists singing La LLorena and other beautriful songs. I had a seasonal specialty called Chiles en Nogada - which was a slightly spicy local chile stuffed with a sweet pork, apple and raisin mixture and topped in cream and pomegranate seeds.. mmm. Justin had half a cow in the form of a dish called arrachette(?). Andy ate a 3 cheese soup, which he said was delicious and Dad had fish tacos served in compartments like fajitas. While we were eating, a group of USA handball contestants were seated alongside a group of Chilean contestants and their friends and family.
As we walked around the 2 side-by-side cathedrals, we saw several weddings lined up, with one in progress. Obviosuly a very good day to get married, though not sure why, possibly just because it was a Saturday? There were so many glamorous and also over-the-top outfits it was hard to say who was in a wedding party and who was a guest. The one that stood out the most was a wedding group that pulled up in a black pickup, with a group of boys in black suits and blue ties riding in the back... the bride in a huge blue gown was very happy to pose for a photo. Their excitement rubbed off on us, leaving a good mood as we walked on.
Another highlight was walking into a courtyard where youth groups of traditional dancers were performing. We 6 sat in the front row, feeling like the show was put on just for us. The dancers were beatuiful in their (many) elaborate costumes. We felt bad leaving about an hour later as they were still carrying on. But it was dark and the boys aren't cultured enough to make it through more than an hour of dancing and we didn't want to push our luck on their good behaviour ... So we called it a day, ending a lovely day out.
Saturday, 15 October 2011
Sat 15 Oct - Tlaquepaque
Saturday, today, we went into neighbouring Tlaquepaque. This is a favourite haunt for all of us when visiting Guadalajara. There are very good restaurants with gourmet and classical mexican food. The main attraction, however, is the town's art galleries and shops. We visited the Museo Pantaleon Panduro museum which had an amazing array of local art. Andy remarked that it wasn't a museum if the things in it aren't hundreds of years old, so I had to explain that an art museum is usually not like a history museum... my brain cells were a bit pushed here, maybe the margarita from lunch?
We ate gourmet mexican cuisine, serenaded by local artists singing La LLorena and other beautriful songs. I had a seasonal specialty called Chiles en Nogada - which was a slightly spicy local chile stuffed with a sweet pork, apple and raisin mixture and topped in cream and pomegranate seeds.. mmm. Justin had half a cow in the form of a dish called arrachette(?). Andy ate a 3 cheese soup, which he said was delicious and Dad had fish tacos served in compartments like fajitas. While we were eating, a group of USA handball contestants were seated alongside a group of Chilean contestants and their friends and family.
As we walked around the 2 side-by-side cathedrals, we saw several weddings lined up, with one in progress. Obviosuly a very good day to get married, though not sure why, possibly just because it was a Saturday? There were so many glamorous and also over-the-top outfits it was hard to say who was in a wedding party and who was a guest. The one that stood out the most was a wedding group that pulled up in a black pickup, with a group of boys in black suits and blue ties riding in the back... the bride in a huge blue gown was very happy to pose for a photo. Their excitement rubbed off on us, leaving a good mood as we walked on.
Another highlight was walking into a courtyard where youth groups of traditional dancers were performing. We 6 sat in the front row, feeling like the show was put on just for us. The dancers were beatuiful in their (many) elaborate costumes. We felt bad leaving about an hour later as they were still carrying on. But it was dark and the boys aren't cultured enough to make it through more than an hour of dancing and we didn't want to push our luck on their good behaviour ... So we called it a day, ending a lovely day out.
Friday, 14 October 2011
Fri 14 Oct - Guadalajara Centro, PanAmerican Games
Friday, we drove downtown, just Justin, the boys and myself. We set out to visit the Museo Regional, where my cousin Patricia's husband Paco is a director. Driving in Mexico has been quite an adventure - Justin says he thinks cars here don't start until someone has a phone in one hand and has likely had a drink. Believe me, you need the drink in order to force yourself into the relentless flow of cars! It didn't help that many key roads are blocked off because of the Pan American games here this week. But we made it. Eventually.
Guadalajara Centro, the heart of everything historical or important in the city, was in festive form... banners, murals and statues everywhere marked the arrival of the PanAmerican games. We walked past the main theatre and headed through the plazas where there are skeleton statues in fancy dress everywhere - marking both the Day of the Dead coming up soon and the PanAmerican games. I never used to think skeletons were cute or funny, but they definitely are here.
The boys got carried away playing with the pigeons in the next plaza - reminded me of similar experiences in St Marks square in Venice. Girls came up in a group and asked to have their photos taken with our 3 boys - they aren't used to seeing the redheads. We had lots of people come up through the day to remark on the 'pelirojos' and say how handsome they are. Must be good for their self-esteem, will have to bring them back when they're teenagers and can really take advantage of this.
We saw a horse and carriage tour operator and decided to take the hour long ride around the town centre. JuanJose, our driver, was very informative pointing out all the sights - I managed to undertand about half of what he said. Although the carriage was decorated white with purple velvet and heart shaped cut-outs, we managed to shake off the feeling we were on a romantic honeymoon ride after a few minutes (mind you, Sam did keep huggling and kissing me relentlessly, but our double-date Andy and Justin were not playing their part). Changito, the horse, was a beautiful brunette with soft brown eyes. She let us pet her a bit afterwards, but drew the line at getting manhandled by Sam.
When we arrived at the Museo Regional, my cousin's husband Paco had already left for the day. We walked through the museum on our own and enjoyed seeing the Indian artefacts from 700 D.C. and the woolly mammoth bones. The boys grew a bit bored when it came to wandering through the rooms of religious paintings upstairs, so we went on out to the plaza there. I figure the collection of religious art must compete with the vatican's own.
We had to go through the Palacio Gobierno, government palace, to view the 2 famous murals by Orozco. They were fabulous. I need to read a bit to interpret the message, but the message seems to be a bloody and tense protrayal of the revolucion, religious struggles and communist influences. Unfortunately, we missed Orozco's biggest venue .. the old orphanage, Hospicio Cabañas, which houses his mural entitled Man of Fire, a hellish depiction in blood red and mute greys. Not too cheerful perhaps, but worth a look in so we need to return at some point.
We had lunch on the front steps of the main cathedral and watched some entertainment set up for the PanAm games. Although the boys haven't been too adventurous with their food, choosing hamburgers when available, Justin and I had some proper local cuisine. I had a torta ahogada, a birrote bread sandwich stuffed with pork with a bowl of salsa to dip it in, and Justin had a Chorizo and Cheese sandwich that was a local specialty. These were great with Margaritas - what isn't?
Walking back to car, we watched some very good mariachi performing in honour of the XXII Mexican Festival of Culture ... this was also also flagged as part of Oktoberfest. Can't beat the free entertainment right now, Guadalajara is in full swing.
In the evening, we watched the opening ceremony of the PanAmerican games. It is always uplifting to see the flow of contestants by country parade proudly through the opening ceremonies of a big event. Even so, by the time all 41 visiting countries walked past I thought I was losing interest, then Mexico came into the arena with elegant native outfits, including sombreros and black skirts and trousers - I was again left emotional and very proud. The entertainment was superb, Dad and I agreed it looked like choreography must have been outsourced to Cirque du Soleil, it had the unmistakeable hallmarks. The flying dancers and wonderful lighting accompanied to the mexican music perfectly.
Monday, 10 October 2011
10 Oct - Arriving in Guadalajara
A we flew into Guadalajara, unbeknownst to us, the city was in a state of preparing for celebrations even more vibrant than the usual. On the place with us were the Brazilian national equestrian team, boisterous, energetic and as we soon discovered, all geared up for the 16th PanAmerican games to be hosted by Mexico in Guadalajara later in the week! They were telling us that this is hopefully the precursor to the Olympics in London next year - and if enthusiasm counts, I'd say they're on the way.
The boys were excited to see Abuelito and visit his home again. They especially love his elevator, they've never seen one in any other home before - come to think of it, neither have I! There is a very pretty 18 year old girl called Jasmin who works here in the kitchen and laundry and a young fellow named Jose who takes care of the garden and cars/garage. Sam has been following Jasmin around like a puppy - when he's missing, I often find him with her in her room .. given that she doesn't speak any english and his spanish is limited to a handful of words I wonder what kind of communications they've developed..
We’re sleeping in what was my younger brother Charlie's room. It is still the same now as it was before he died in December. All his photos still cover the walls and his books and knick-knacks surround us. There’s a definite feel of his presence in the room and I like that. Coming Mexico has always felt like coming to the world I inhabited by all the spirits and ghosts of my past here now staining my present with their bittersweet memories. Appropriate then that we are here in time for Day of the Dead celebrations, when Mexican people remember their friends and family who have passed on with festive celebrations.
After a quiet day on Tuesday – well, as quiet as three energetic, noisy boys caged indoors can be - we went to the cinema in the evening. The boys and I chose Lion King 3D with Jasmin while Dad and Justin watched a grown-up comedy. As we settled into our seats (cosier than those in our English theatre) the boys were outraged to find out that the movie was actually in spanish and with no subtitles!! ... but after a bit of grumbling and resistance they eventually settled into it and could even be said to have enjoyed the experience - Ben claimed to have seen much more detail in the waterfalls and jungle creatures since he couldn't understand the words.
Wednesday here in Zapopan was a very important day - the festival of the virgin of Zapopan. It is a big holiday here in Guadalajara, one of 2 key religious holidays, and there is no school. There is a huge parade from the cathedral in Guadalajara centre to the cathedral in Zapopan, a 3 hour walk. Many native indian dancers in cermonial attire dance through the streets, followed by schools and other religious groups, then monks and priests ...ordered to some extent, it seemed, by religious rankings? .. old and young all cover the same 3 hour distance. The virgin arrives at the rear of the procession in a ceremonial car and is transferred to a golden pedestal for the last few hundred yards walk. There were one million people watching this year - less than usual due to torrential rains.
We tried to make the most of the situation, all of us in rain jackets and Dad having brought 2 umbrellas - but it was freezing. Our legs and feet were dripping, hair plastered to foreheads and rain jackets working to their fullest extent. We were quite far from much of the marching parade and, as the boys pointed out, we were there for what seemed like a very long time. Still, we were located in a spot close to the transfer of the virgin to the gold pedestal, which was quite lucky. Maybe it was appropriate that it was raining as the main fame of the virgen of zapopan is having brought rain to the land during a great famine. This is why she is carried around all of the churches in the area and arrives in the final cathedral, her home - and has done this journey for 277 years. We rewarded our shivering, blue-lipped boys with some warm chocolate and picked up some Day of the Dead sweet bread (formed as doughy skeleton bones) on the way home.
Wednesday evening, Gilda came over with her son, my nephew Charlie Jr. We all had dinner together with my aunt Lupe and my father's friend Conchita - a DA he has become friends with. Dad was trying to play it cool, but we all noticed the extra efforts that had been made in dressing for dinner before he went to pick up his friend. Lunch as prepared by my father and Jasmine was delicious. When Gilda left us to go to work, Justin and I took Charlie and the boys to Peter Piper pizza. Same as in any country, it was very noisy and lots of money spent! Could've used ear plugs, will plan ahead next time.
Thursday we went and bought a Wireless router so that Dad's house could have internet more accessible. Justin installed the new router and then spent time working on Dad's computer as it has serious virus issues.
Thursday evening, some of my mexican cousins came over for the evening. Although we were told a start time of 5 o'clock it was no surprise to find the earliest person arriving around 6:30 or 7 as seems to be the mexican style. My cousins Marielle, Angie, MariLupe, Lorena, Lupita, Margarita, Patricia, and Monica Sofia arrived with their little ones many of whom I have never met before. Innes, Lorenzo, Matisse, Valentia, Jose Pedro, Luciana and Santiago ... We all had drinks and communicated in a very mixed spanish and english, spanglish, with accompanying hand gestures. Justin had been dreading this much conversation in spanish, but he managed fine - the girls thought he hadn't aged since they last saw him, and he's always happy to hang out with beautiful women.
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