Sat 22 Oct - Cuzama cenotes and Izamal

Saturday morning we had to say goodbye to the folks at the hostel and move onwards on our way to Playa del Carmen.  The fellows that run the hostel, Oscar, Moses and their helpers, had become fond of the boys, especially Sam who spent lots of time talking with them.  The children had all been practicing their spanish ordering breakfast each day.  They are each getting really clear at saying ‘may I have ..’,  ‘thank you’, and ‘please’.


We all enjoyed getting to know a young couple called Jessi (from Chicago) and Johann (from Iceland). They were dive instructors and travelled all over the place.  Johann especially impressed the boys with photos of water snakes, eels, rays and all sorts of sea creatures.  Jessi is also a website developer who has written a travel site in java: http://beneaththesurface.me/.


We set off for Cenotes near Cuzama and were pleasantly surprised to find them.  When we pulled our car into the cark park, we saw a group of small wooden carts (the size of golf carts) and horses near what appeared to be a set of narrow railway tracks.   We were told to climb aboard one (each carries 3-6 people) and the horse and driver took off at a trot.  It seemed like ages that the horse went on – at least 15 or 20 minutes – until we arrived at the first cenote.   This cenote trio had definitely been cultivated to gear towards tourists.  There was even a hut with a bathroom and changing area off a little path.  It was surprisingly clean and well-maintained for something that far out in the wild. 


Climbing down steps into the first cenote, it was a relief to see the sun coming in from above lit the water and made it clear and blue so we could see the light bottom of the water in places.  We each enjoyed jumping in and swimming around inside the large cavern.  The water was extremely clear and fresh.  We could see some small fish in the water occasionally.


Moving on to the next cenote, we were already suited up, wet and ready to jump in.  At the mouth of the 2nd cenote we found a ladder that went straight down.  We couldn’t see well into the cavern from above, so I was a bit concerned about the little ones making it down the ladder safely.  Justin and Andy went down and returned  with news that it was safer than it looked so we all went down together.  This 2nd cenote was a bit deeper than the first, with an interesting hill like mound of stone in the center of the water.  We enjoyed investigating the areas near the entrance mainly.  Justing went a bit further out into the more distant darker corners with his underwater camera.


I felt pretty sorry for the horses pulling the carts – many appeared to be skin and bones.  Not in a state to pull cartloads of people along long distances of tracks.  I fed our 2 apples to a few


Scout meetings/conference at the cathedra


delicious tacos in the square


Pedro, Eduardo, and Jose at the sat eve festival








===Sun:  Izamal breakfast, then Chichen Itza for afternoon, drive to playa


Saturday morning we had to say goodbye to the folks at the hostel and move onwards on our way to Playa del Carmen.  The fellows that run the hostel, Oscar, Moses and their helpers, had become fond of the boys, especially Sam who spent lots of time talking with them.  The children had all been practicing their spanish ordering breakfast each day.  They are each getting really clear at saying ‘may I have ..’,  ‘thank you’, and ‘please’.


We all enjoyed getting to know a young couple called Jessi (from Chicago) and Johann (from Iceland). They were dive instructors and travelled all over the place.  Johann especially impressed the boys with photos of water snakes, eels, rays and all sorts of sea creatures.  Jessi is also a website developer who has written a travel site in java: http://beneaththesurface.me/.


We set off for Cenotes near Cuzama and were pleasantly surprised to find them.  When we pulled our car into the cark park, we saw a group of small wooden carts (the size of golf carts) and horses near what appeared to be a set of narrow railway tracks.   We were told to climb aboard one (each carries 3-6 people) and the horse and driver took off at a trot.  It seemed like ages that the horse went on – at least 15 or 20 minutes – until we arrived at the first cenote.   This cenote trio had definitely been cultivated to gear towards tourists.  There was even a hut with a bathroom and changing area off a little path.  It was surprisingly clean and well-maintained for something that far out in the wild. 


Climbing down steps into the first cenote, it was a relief to see the sun coming in from above lit the water and made it clear and blue so we could see the light bottom of the water in places.  We each enjoyed jumping in and swimming around inside the large cavern.  The water was extremely clear and fresh.  We could see some small fish in the water occasionally.


Moving on to the next cenote, we were already suited up, wet and ready to jump in.  At the mouth of the 2nd cenote we found a ladder that went straight down.  We couldn’t see well into the cavern from above, so I was a bit concerned about the little ones making it down the ladder safely.  Justin and Andy went down and returned  with news that it was safer than it looked so we all went down together.  This 2nd cenote was a bit deeper than the first, with an interesting hill like mound of stone in the center of the water.  We enjoyed investigating the areas near the entrance mainly.  Justing went a bit further out into the more distant darker corners with his underwater camera.


I felt pretty sorry for the horses pulling the carts – many appeared to be skin and bones.  Not in a state to pull cartloads of people along long distances of tracks.  I fed our 2 apples to a few of the horses who seemed a tired and thirsty.  Tough life for a horse.


We set out for Izamal, a town we had heard lovely things abotu from, well, just about everyone so far!  Izzamal did not disappoint.  The entire town is painted one color - a mustard yellow, ochre, with white trimmings.  The huge cathedral is a dramatic centerpiece to the town and is overlooked by no less than 4 pyramids left here by the mayans. The city has a largely spanish influence that can be seen in the architecture, however - another place living in onging contrast: old and new, mayan and spanish, colorful and conservative, all living side by side.


We decided to call it an evening in Izamal and not try to get all the way to Valladolid as had been the earlier plan.  We stayed in a beautiful hotel, elegant and stylish.  2 Queen size beds and a large hammock in our room along with a private shower felt very luxurious after sharing with our hostel mates.


We set out into the town and headed into the cathedral first.  A large gruops of scouts were holding a conference there with little tents in the grassy courtyards.   Inside the cathedral lots of people were attending the evening mass.  I stopped to listen, it warmed me to join in their mass for a few moments.





Heading down into the plazas, the townsfolk were out celebrating the Saturday night joyfully.  There were people of all ages, fair rides set up, little market stalls, and outdoor restaurants.


We settled into some tables at a little restaurant stall and ordered the only thing realy on offer - pork filets sliced up with tacos and served with salsa and limes.   We all agreed that it might have been the best meal we'd eaten so far on our journeys.


The family working this outdoor restaurant was very attentive and professional.  A little boy who brought us our food kept watching the boys.   We called him over and were talking with him - he said his name was Pedro and he was 8 years old, same as Ben.  He kept smiling as he talked and we thought he was a charming little guy.   His cousin, Eduardo, about 12 years old came to help.  He was also very interested in the boys and what football team they support - football again, the internationla language of men!





After eating we asked the boys parents if we could invite them to join our boys for 15 or 20 minutes to ride some of the fair rides.  Their parents were kind and said it was ok.  Pedro says he works every day in their restaurant - Andy and Ben were impressed by this.





We took the boys and their little cousin, Jose, to the ferris wheel and all the kids - minues Jose who was about 3 - queued up for a ride.  It was fun to watch.  I did notive that 'elf and safety guidelines do not seem to be imposed here either as the ferris wheel was much faster than others we're used to.  The boys found it thrilling of course!! I was a little nervous watching, with Jose by my side.





Afterwards we took them to the 'bouncy house' which was a meshed structure with two levels of trampolines - looked like one mounted on poles above another - connected to another two levels of similar set-up by a slide and tunnel.  The structure seemed safe enough for what it was.


Finally, we went to the bumpers cars and all had a go - including Justin and myself.  I took little Jose in my car and Justin took Sam.   These bumper cars were a bit bumpier than I remembered them to be and -surprise! - no seatbelts.  'elf and saftey has definitely not visited Izamal.  We did have fun, but poor little Jose bumped his lip quite badly - even though I held on to him so tightly I struggled to steer!


We took the boys back and Ben realised his Nintendo DSi had been in his pocket and now was not.  Of course he was devastated, and we looked high and low for it.  But, as a local guy said, something that expensive will not stay around for long.  I felt guilty inquiring about the missing DSi as it was embarrassing to mention that my son owned a toy so expensive it cost more than most of those folks probably make in a week, or four!  So it was a sad end to what had been a very fun night out for all of us.  Ben cried a lot, but he and Andy said they also understood how priveliged they are to own these things at all.