7-10 Jan Peru - Tambopata Rainforest Reserve

2012-01 B-Peru-Tambopata OK, I'm really backtracking here because we were way too busy for journal entries while at the Tambopata Rainforest Reserve in Peru.   So here's what I remember .... We took a plan ride from Cusco with our fellow travelling family, the Lamberts from Australia.   It was short ... the wait at the airport is the longest point really.   We arrived into the tiny town of Puerto Madonado from where rainforest jungle excursions are arranged.    Once at our hosts' offices in Puerto Maldonado, we were whisked onto a bus and about 40 minutes drive to a river where we all transferred to a large motorised canoe for the 2 1/2 hour ride to our lodge in the jungle.   We saw an agouti on the edges of the brown river.  Other than that, it was mainly the choppy brown waters and lush, tall green foliage all the way.  A packed lunch of chicken and rice wrapped in large leaves was distributed and it was delicious. When we finally arrived at our destination port, we threw our small packs on our backs and climbed up the wooden steps to the jungle track.  It's about a 15 minute walk, but as it was getting dusky, it was difficult to keep our feet out of the mud and on the path.  Rain inour eyes didn't help. We saw some light through the trees and all of a sudden we emerged into an clearing to the impressive view of a large, 2-story, open-sided lodge.  More luxurious than we had ever hoped for, there were candles lighting up the wooden furniture and the place was all aglow.  The children found hammocks, dominoes and bookshelves upstairs.  The grown-ups found beer and wine downstairs around tables with comfortable chairs. If it weren't for the limited electricity and only-cold showers, we wouldn't know how far off the grid we were.   Even the dinners were made so nicely, buffet-style peruvian dishes, mmmm. In the jungle, we trekked about to see the various forms of trees and small creatures.  Our guide Yuri was excellent.  He knew all the local wildlife facts and got everyone (but me!) to try eating some termites ... I just couldn't, but I'm not proud of myself!!  Termites are one of the best sources of food if one becomes lost in a jungle. We saw the largest brazil nut trees and strangled fig (banyan) trees that we have ever seen as well as some huge sayba (mayan tree of life).    We all took turns to stand in groups inside a huge, empty strangled fig - the tree it had engulfed had almost entirely disappeared over time.  It was amazing to look up so high and see ourselves encased in the strangled fig vine-trunks. We all gave a hand (and foot) to climbing vines.  Not as easy as Tarzan made it look!   It takes a lot of muscle to cling on and pull upwards, but it was fun trying. Back at the lodge, Yuri showed us a brazil nut pod - which looks almost exactly like a coconut to me.  He showed us how to open it with a machete and carefully extract the 10-20 brazil nutes inside.  We then carefully cracked the soft shells off the nuts and tasted the nuts.  They were nothing like the brazil nuts I've had before - fresh they are soft and not dry at all, but full of flavour.  I guess we always get them once they've been dried, roasted and travelled around the world. One day, we went tree-climbing.  Only it was nothing like our usual tree climbing.  We were climbing a brazil nut tree, which are around 40 meters high.  For this, we were equipped with climbing harness and 2 locking carabeeners - we moved the hand carabeener up as high as we could reach and then sat back and moved our feet high into a crouch, then stood up to move the hand carabeener up .... looking every bit like inch worms.  Man was this tough!!  By the time I was halfway up, the only thing that madde me keep going was the knowledge that Justin would somehow manage to zip up the line unaided.  So I did it, it was one of the toughest things I've ever done, but I pulled my body weight 40 meters up into that tree.   Athough I've been rock climbing several times, nothing prepared me for the dizzying height of the platform at the top.   I felt slightly nasueous looking around.  Ben, Sam and Kiana were already up there - having been pulled halfway or more to the top.   I watched Ben unhook his attached carabeener and panicked just as the guide at the top grabbed it and re-attached him - phew!!  Real heart-stopping situation! It was a great view from the top.  As I expected, Justin not only made it to the top but beat my speed quite easily - b*#^~@d!!    And he helped pull our friend Michelle up the tree when she tired out too.  Justin went kayaking later, which I was just to tired to do.  He took the camera and managed to see a sloth licking the clay at a salt lick near the river.   He also saw some flocks of macaws flying about in the tall trees. Two were fighting viciously - what drama queens! Our time at the lodge was lovely, but brief.  It gave us a good taster for the rainforest volunteer work we'll be doing on the 30th at Manu Biosphere Reserve in south Peru.   We know know what to expect - the calf-deep mud, the rain, the cold showers ... but also the amazing trees and jungle creatures.   We're looking forward to it.